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On an afternoon in June, Francesco Galli Zugaro is taking in the same view, which has barely changed. Like Darwin, the Italian-American has come to observe the wildlife. But as the founder of the luxury cruise company Aqua Expeditions, he is concerned with the evolution of a species that has only recently begun to visit these shores: Homo affluentes rimor, perhaps, or affluent explorer.

Getting dropped into a feeding frenzy of whale sharks might not exactly scream “luxury”, nor might spending a week aboard a decommissioned British navy vessel. but throw in a cruise director who was once a Royal Marine and an owner with a passion for hard-to-reach destinations, and you’ve got Aqua Blu.

It’s early morning and the sky is lowering a grey curtain over the peaks of Rinca Island as our tender boat bumps across the bay towards a deserted beach. There are no other vessels to be seen, no winking lights of habitation on the shore.

“Shh, listen to the symphony.” This is the instruction issued by our guide, Neycer Pizango, who has cut the engine of our skiff. Striving to be a good student, I sit as still as I can and tilt my head up toward the forest canopy. An echo of chattering macaws cracks through the rattle of the cicadas.